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Would like some ideals on where to go.Just got a new little M block with 350 mains thats it for now.Looking to build something mostly for street use with weekend track passes.Not looking to put big bucks into it but would like10.70 or better on motor and maybe a 200 shot at the track.Its going into an s10 thats backhalfed with a 9in that is ladder bar and has 488's.It now has a flat top 355 pretty much stock with a fair size cam and runs 11.00 motor 10.70 with 100 shot.

mudder wrote:Would like some ideals on where to go.Just got a new little M block with 350 mains thats it for now.Looking to build something mostly for street use with weekend track passes.Not looking to put big bucks into it but would like10.70 or better on motor and maybe a 200 shot at the track.Its going into an s10 thats backhalfed with a 9in that is ladder bar and has 488's.It now has a flat top 355 pretty much stock with a fair size cam and runs 11.00 motor 10.70 with 100 shot.

I would think that you wasted money buying a 350 main block,you would get much more power building a 400 inch plus for about the same bucks....Sorry...OLDHEAD

so maybe I should ride by the dump open the door,shove it out and hope it falls in a deep hole and someone comes along and fills in the hole?

You can dump it off at my place... Seriously though, you can get a 4.00 stroke crank with a 350 main. Don't know what bore size you plan on running, but that stroke will get you a 427 with a 4.125 bore.

Thank you for your help tportor was hope for a little more help but some Is much better than NONE.Its just that I got the block for a little better than half of what it cost.I'm sure someone has tried this and that with a 350 block and knows what it takes to put togather a nice street piece that can take a 200 shot and still ride to the park,mall or what ever,again thanks.

The 350 Main block was a better choice, smaller dia. main is less surface area and less problems, and most of the manufacturers have larger stroke cranks with the smaller main. You went the correct direction on that. Build a combo thats readily available and you can get replacement parts easily, custom stuff costs $$$ when you need to replace things in a hurry. Larger motors will allow you to make some steam without having to lean on them hard, also take a look at some of the racing orgs in your area if you had any interest in getting involved in racing in a series and look at the rules before you do a buildup, there may be something more intrigue-ing before you get started and find out you are illegal for what you may want to do. You have already spent a couple of grand on a block and thats not chump change so make sure that the rest of tyour pieces are well worth the make up of the rest of the motor. Some people will spend 15 grand on a complete engine only to throw in an inferior part trying to save a buck or two, when you have that much already invested dont skimp, it will only come back to bite you in the end.

Rich Maitre
Ram Racing Heads
www.ramracing.us

do you know what the bore is on the block?

Those blocks can safely go to 4.200 bore and still sonic thick. We have one now under a 415 (was440) now destroked, with conventional heads we made 795 hp (as a 440) with good fuel. Thats an N/A motor.

Rich

for your street /strip build and nos use you got a good foundation .the smaller mains are ideal!
i would use a 3.875 scat crank and matching h-beam stroker rods . and a set of good flat top nos pistons. it will keep the bob weights close and the balance away from mallory metal . afr's new heads are killer if you have the bucks but the old 215fullcnc are still out there and would work great with the large exhaust side and the nos . as far as cams go if your on the street alot cruising at low rpm than a custom hydro roller is your best bet .you can get force fed oil solid roller lifters but for your use its is way over the top . the street use and nos will want a very custom grind set up for your head flow and amount of nos used . it will yeild a very mild streetable cam with good n/a top end and alot of extra free nos power from a given shot. expect to loose 0.2 off a maxed out tight lobe n/a cam but gain about o.5 extra with the bottle . if you deside/purchase heads and give me your cars specs on a pm i can run some iterations for you and give you a grind .i have a professional copy of mms cam help and pc 1/4

i totally agree with adamsvega..


if you are going to spend money...INVEST it...in a stroker assembly such as Eagle or Scat...make sure the rods are stroker clearanced what ever you decide to go with...


3.875 x4.125 is a great combo...hyd roller for some street action...AFRs or Dart 215s...flat top combo with a Comp Cams at around 240 @.050..

this is not a simple bolt together motor...but done correctly will serve you right for a long time...

nosnerd

Run the biggest bore you can, stay away from the long cranks (over 3.75) unless you own a die grinder, and have time to clearance it properly. I love AFR heads, brodix work well also, and the valve train geometry won't drive you nuts. Roller cam is the only way to fly, expensive , but worth it. Cam for your converter,car weight, rear gear. Spend a lot of time making sure all those aftermarket parte are happy together, you'll have a pille of aluminum dust on the floor.

Sounds like you are of to a good start with the block. It should not be hard to get were you want to go even with pump gas! Check out our site and give us a call.
www.budzmotorsports.com
Thanks
Vince and Josh

FONSE PERFORMANCE WILL TAKE CARE OF ALL YOUR ENGINE NEEDS!