fuel system problem????

[the big edbosky]

so i have been having an ongoing issue with my fuel system for my nitrous kit. i have a fully dedicated system w/ a psi safety switch installed on a non bypass regulator. this is what is going on. when i take the saftey switch out of the loop i can activate my fuel solenoid and get the psi up and flowing on the fuel system. if i don't do that the psi reads at zero, (even though i had set it at flow with the little jet adapter). so with that being said when the switch is wired back in i can't activate my solenoids because the switch see's no psi to even purge it to get it flowing.
would a bypass regulator be the answer here?

[Gameracing]

wire the safety switch into the nitrous sdlenoid , but NOT the fuel solenoid.

[adamsvega]

YOUR SECOND FUEL PUMP RELAY SHOULD BE WIRED TO YOUR ARM SWITCH. THE HOBBS SWITCH SHOULD CONTROL THE SOLENOID RELAY BY ACTIVATING THE GROUND . THE POWER TO THE TRIGGER FOR THE SOLENIOD RELAY SHOULD BE YOUR ACTIVATION SWITCH (RPM,BUTTON COMP. WHAT EVER) SO ARMED YOU GOT PSI TURNING ON THE SWITCH AND ALLOWING THE TRIGGER TO ACTIVATE THE RELAY AND SENDING POWER TO BOTH SOLENOIDS . THE POWER FEED TO RELAY IS THE IGNITION SWITCH AND THE GROUND IS YOUR NOS MASTER SWITCH TO BOTH RELAYS FUEL AND SOLENOIDS!

[the big edbosky]

o.k. i'm gonna take that into consideration. but i have everything wired to the instructions. i have been reading some stuff on an air bleed. it kinda makes sense thet this would help because i can't get a psi reading no matter how it's wired until i activate the solenoid and begin flow. unfortunately i can't do crap when the switch is hooked up because it immediately see's no psi, so i can't even purge the system to begin an initial flow. but thanks adam (trust me i do value your advice) i'm not ruleing out the wiring just yet. i'm gonna try a temporary air bleed set up first and go from there.

[HonkIfPartsFallOff]

No, psi has nothing to do with air being trapped. Air is compressable, and for the most part all pressure gauges have x amount of air in the system they are monitoring. Think of an oil pressure gauge with the little plastic line, when you install the gauge where does all that air go? the gauge still works.

is that Hobb switch is adjustable? are you sure that it's set low enough to work? 1000's of people have N20 systems that work with deadhead regulators, I'm sure your just missing something minor,

[OLDHEAD]

I have found a .040 to .060 jet in a bleed system from the pressure side of the nitrous fuel regultor return to the fuel tank a real good idea. Keeps fresh fuel and no air at the fuel selnoid....Makes setting the fuel pressure a snap by flowing the fuel while you do your adjustment........Have fun...Oldhead

[the big edbosky]

well i tried a temporary air bleed set-up...and it worked like a charm! the little bit of flow gives the system just what it needs to get started. i didn't see but maybe a 1/2 lb of psi loss with using a #64 jet into a -4 hose plumbed right before the inlet on the fuel solenoid. i will however double check the setting/function of the hobbs switch as well. no i just need to make it permanent.

[adamsvega]

your only worried if your Hobbs switch will turn on when the pump is pushing. it can be as low as 2 psi and do the job . .you can bleed the gauge with the pump running just loosen it up and push some out. you might have a wrong switch or 1 thats f/up'd. if you use a bleed no matter what you flowing calibration for fuel through the pill will be off .the same as if the gauge was off . thats fuel volume that you wont get to the motor on the nos side . how big of a pump do you have and can you afford to loose about 100 h/p worth of safety ? . if everything is wired as instructed and switch is tested good . i would use a bypass .if you want the bleed to stay you need more pump flow.
if you got a holley pump your options are limited .
nos pump sit for long times things happen,vanes can stick, regulators get crap in the poppets ,TIMMING RETARDS FRAG and so forth .
now your running at 50% volume or too much timing the dead head psi looks good and YOU TORCH A PISTON or worse. not many check flow rate after each pass. see the point ?
you just start off safe ,rich and lotsa timing out and keep leaning on it till it slows add it back then mess with timing .
a holley pump with a stuck vane will support about 200 h/p max now piss off 70-100h/p with a none regulated bypass and you were tuned up on 100 h/p nos pill you played with timing and fuel and are pulling 130 out of it now your 30 lean in the curve and you wont know it .
dont make the basics your mistakes even at a starter level . imagine having a bad ground on your big 350 pump and a dual 450+h/p shot with plate and fogger and chase the fuel problem through 2 motors .................no names big street racer .