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im looking to get a pair of new tires for the upcoming season and unsure of wat type to get...i have ran ET Drags, ET streets and ET street radials 28x11.5x15 and 275/60s but was always spinning out the gate and couldnt get consistent times to actually compare them.....3450lb xcab s10, stick trans and 4.33 gears.....best i could get was 1.7? 60fts but mostly in the 1.8s.....what do you guys think would be best for me?

Before you start looking at tires you are gonna hafta sort the chassis out first.

yes i know that but i need to get a tire on there first so i can do so....i have all the suspension stuff on already just need to get it tuned in

put the tallest and widest slick you can fit. I've seen plenty of S-10's running 275/60/15 drag radials that make them work with bolt on susp. pieces. what does you suspension consist of? where the pinion angle? what is the weight bais?

9 SEC. ON 28X10.5 .........

jays64II wrote:put the tallest and widest slick you can fit. I've seen plenty of S-10's running 275/60/15 drag radials that make them work with bolt on susp. pieces. what does you suspension consist of? where the pinion angle? what is the weight bais?

28x11.5 is the widest...i wanted to know the differences between the tires themselves....i know there are tons of s10s that work but mostly reg cabs....extended cabs are longer and changes alot...2piece driveshaft was killing me but i got that changed already.....90/10s up front and caltrac bars and mono leafs with CE 3way adj out back...i know the pinion angle is way off but thats fixed now...dunno the weight bias how could i find this out??

adamsvega wrote:9 SEC. ON 28X10.5 .........

i wish.....ive seen it done many times in s10s though

to find the weight bais you need to put the truck on a four corner scale system. any good chassis shop will have a set of scales.

the long beds and ex cabs just have more potential with out wheelie bars . loose as much nose weight as possible. put the batt. and fuel in the bed. use a small dist. and set the motor back then shorten the shaft. do not lower the front end!!!!!!!! with short springs you need longer thinner springs and adjustable front shocks to let you control the rate of rise and adjustable rears to control the hit .

adamsvega wrote:the long beds and ex cabs just have more potential with out wheelie bars . loose as much nose weight as possible. put the batt. and fuel in the bed. use a small dist. and set the motor back then shorten the shaft. do not lower the front end!!!!!!!! with short springs you need longer thinner springs and adjustable front shocks to let you control the rate of rise and adjustable rears to control the hit .

i have the cell. batt, and bottle in the bed against the tailgate....small cap MSD dist is against the firewall practically, so the motor cant really go back anymore....already got a aluminum shaft....stock 4cyl springs but have drop spindles and caltrac 90/10 front shocks

YOU HAVE TO LOWER THE REAR TO IF YOU WANT IT TO HOOK .THE DROP SPINDLES LOAD THE FRONT WITH TOO MUCH WEIGHT AND YOU GOT THE STANCE NOW PUT THE BIGGEST MEAT OUT BACK AND LOWER IT TO MATCH AND GET RID OF RAKE . THIS AINT A TRACTOR PULL OFF!!

i have the caltracs bars and caltrac split mono leafs with 2inch drop in them.....only way to lower it more is with blocks and everyone says not to run them.....it does have a slight rake but not much.....last year i had 28x11.50...thats the widest that would fit but could go taller but i dont wanna regear it any higher

if it is hooked up and not jacked up like ya say it should work . do ya got video of it so i can slow it down and see whats happening ?
that set up with any kinda half ass drag tire should work into the nines